CT Sounds CT-2000.1D Compact Class D Car Audio Monoblock Amplifier, 2000 Watts RMS

I've had this thing for a year now and it's still going strong. It runs super cool, which is awesome. No problems so far, knock on wood. Definitely recommend it to anyone looking for something similar. Glad I bought it.

Plenty of power. Give it stable volts It will provide power.

Hi quality amp I started with it powering a JL audio 10w3 then upgraded to 2 JL Audio 12W7's at 1 ohm it bangs all day never gets hot but you absolutely need to run at least 2 gage (or larger) wires from the battery and not that copper clad aluminum junk if you install it right this amp will be great only slightly complaint is that the base knob kinda feels cheap and the light on it is way to dam bright it will light up the whole car if mounted on the dash so point it to the floor and your ally good I sharpied over mine still shows through but is much dimmer

Performs very well. Only problem after owning for a few months is there is feedback from the bass control knob cable. When you push on the phone connection plug the bass activates suddenly with maximum feedback when volume is off. Scares me sometimes

Had the amp a year. Still going strong. Skar speakers barely can handle it. Swapping for CT subs.

I'm not a car audio genius but I have owned several systems that I have installed, and you eventually get a feeling for the correct setup combo. I was running 2 shallow 10s , so your limited on your power, this amp is likely over powered for 2 10s with a RMS of 300 each. I cooked two cheapy 10s, they sounded amazing for a few weeks listening to some NOFX, a perfect circle and tool.. and they I got that burnt plastic smell, I knew the subs were done. That was wired to 2 ohms at the amp lol. I then wired to 4 ohms at the amp with a new set of shallow 10, again the RMS was 350 per sub, so wiring 4 ohm I didn't wanna cook my new items which were name brand 200$ subs. Overall this amp is nice, works great, and doesn't get too hot.. but.. I dialed it all in, sounded great, and then I plugged in the base knob, which seemed to mess everything up. Eventually the base knob cord, anytime I touched it, the subs would thump and hum. I litterally unplugged the knob and threw it away and here we are 6 months later the sub works great.Also, this was in a 2018 f250 with a factory Sony system which I bypassed using a pac unit, you can't delete the factory sub in this particular vehicles because it powers more then you realize. Also used the factory nav unit still which comes with its own audio settings to mess with. As vehicles get newer and newer this car audio stuff gets harder amd more expensive. The amp, being 250, 400 in subs, 150$ box, 199$ pac unit, and prob 100$ in wiring, its easy to not wanna burn up equipment not knowing the correct way to wire things. My advice, great amp, but use Google, get diagrams, don't wire double or triple your subs RMS, your just asking for a problem.

Installed amp with 0 gauge wire and it powered on after install. However after the first ten minutes of music playing with the amp at 1/4 gain and zero bass boost the amp shut off and went into protection, I inspected all connections and checked my voltages and ground connection and everything was it should be. After a few minutes it left protection mode and turned on and proceeded to cause horrible distortion. With the the gain turned all the way down the subs would pulse as it everything was turned all the way up. After removal of the amp and further investigation it was found that both the power supply and the filter in the amp had blown.. I get that you get what you pay for and with the price I figured there may be problems further down the road but not after ten minutes of use. Just spend a few more bucks and get a good quality amp.

It’s a good amp, hit hard for my two 10” kicker comp r and didn’t get hot but after installing my Rockville punisher 10D2 i definitely see it getting hot a little more so I’ll have to watch for it but it hits hard in my car for sure I love it