Dorman 14151 Master Cylinder Bleeder Kit

Did the job it’s supposed to. It helped me save $$$ from having to take it to the shop to have the replacement master cylinder replaced.

The basic idea behind this kit is that the tubes channel the master cylinder's output (fluid/air mixture) into the MC's fluid reservoir when you push the MC's piston inward, and pull only fluid back into the MC when you release the piston. But the problem is that air remains in the tubes when the piston is fully depressed, and gets pulled back into the MC when the piston is released, so that the air is never eliminated. So, I pulled each tube, one at a time, out of the reservoir and put a finger (protected from the fluid by a disposable nitrile mechanic's glove) over the end of the tube just before releasing the piston, to prevent anything in the tube from being drawn back into the MC. Instead, fluid is drawn from the reservoir. Using this procedure, it didn't take many strokes to get the air out. Some do the same thing without the tubes, but the tubes make it easier to see if there's any air still coming out, as well as channeling the fluid back into the reservoir, thus avoiding other problems. When there is ANY possibility of coming into contact with brake fluid, wear nitrile mechanic's gloves and safety glasses. You do not want any of this stuff on your hands or in your eyes, and believe me, it will inevitably get on your hands and come flying at your eyes when you work on brakes. It tries to suck moisture out of whatever it contacts, and if that's your skin, it will dry it out for possibly weeks, and lotion, or at least the ones I tried, don't relieve the irritation. If it's your eye, I shudder to think what could happen. The first step when replacing a master cylinder should be to see if you can loosen its mounting nuts. I didn't do this until after I drained the MC and disconnected the brake lines, and found that I couldn't loosen the mounting nuts with what I had on hand. (I was able to loosen them after getting a deep 6-point socket and some PB Blaster, but it still wasn't easy.) So, I had to reconnect the brake lines to the old MC and bleed the system. Fortunately, I had a Motive power bleeder, and it worked like a charm. But it would have gone much better with a proper bleeding-wrench, because when using a pressure bleeder, it's best to avoid having to disconnect the bleeder-tube to reposition the wrench, because if the valve is oven even slightly, fluid will come out of the end of the valve when you disconnect the tube. So, you need the right wrench to avoid having to reposition it while the valve is partly open. A good tube-fitting would have also come in handy, because it's best to have a tight seal on the bleeder-valve, to prevent fluid from leaking out between the valve and the fitting, and to prevent air from leaking in and giving you the impression that there's air in the system when there isn't, and perhaps continuing to bleed the line until you drain all of the fluid out of the pressure-bleeder, and start pumping air into the system. I almost got to this point, and I had put about a quart into the pressure-bleeder. So, I ordered a bleeder-wrench and some bleeder-tube fittings from Amazon. I tried Wal-Mart, but the fittings would have been shipped from China, which is absurd. When done bleeding, Motive power bleeders are supposed to be rinsed out with denatured alcohol, which is also supposed to be pumped through the hose. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter - don't go to some online forum and risk getting "advice" from some anonymous practical joker. The slightest amount of contamination of any kind in brake fluid might cause problems with the brake system. When I'm not using the power bleeder, I put a baggie over the end of the hose and seal it on with a rubber band. I also keep the pump in a gallon-sized zipper-baggie when it's not in the tank.

The fittings are OK but since they’re plastic, the threads can be easily damaged if not started perfectly when screwing them in. The red SAE fittings are marked with their size, but the blue metric fittings have no markings on them. These fittings are good for using a few times, but I would buy metal fittings instead. Since I needed only one of the sizes included in the kit, I bought a four pack of the Uxcell Brass Fitting Connector Metric M10-1 Male to Barb fittings (ASIN B07Z9RC78H) here on Amazon for about $7. Those work well, are cheap, and much more durable.

High Quality – Large Assortment of Fittings – Fit 1997 Ford E350 Brake Master Cylinder Once upon a time, a long time ago, when manufacturers were good people, you always received the correct size Brake Master Cylinder Bench Bleeder Kit in every box of every Brake Master Cylinder you purchased. Nowadays, you are lucky if you get brake line plugs to seal the ports after Bench Bleeding as you carry the Master Cylinder to your vehicle. So, you have to buy such a universal Bleeder Kit such as this. When I cannot afford the OEM brand, I prefer to buy Dorman brand products because they are always high quality with perfect, as stated, fitment. Do not make the mistake of thinking you can just bleed the Brake Master Cylinder by pumping the brake pedal and blowing the air out of a brake cylinder bleeder valve. You MUST bench bleed your Brake Master Cylinder on any modern vehicle that has an ABS system pump. If you pump air into the ABS system pump, you MUST use an expensive OBD scan tool to perform a complicated ABS system pump bleed procedure.

Worked good for me. No issues. Used it to bleed a brake master cylinder. Comes with different connections for other situations.

High quality

Worked well for bench bleeding my new master cylinder for a 2001 ram 1500. Just be careful threading the fittings and it'll do the job leak-free! Has a very large assortment of fittings. I cleaned the fittings and hoses up after use with brake cleaner and stored the whole kit in a Ziploc bag. I'm ready for the next time I need to bleed a master cylinder. It's a decent little kit for the price.

Was disappointed right from the get go once I opened the package. First of all these fittings belong in a separated plastic case but they come all loose in a plastic cylinder sealed to a piece of cardboard showing what it is up front and what suppose to be in the package on the back of the card board. So I went out an purchased a small see through plastic case so I could sort them out inside it. I did that yesterday. Glad I did instead of waiting to the day I would need to use it being the count on the fittings supplied was off. You are suppose to get (2) of the 9/16-20 but I only received (1). Next you are suppose to receive (2) of 9/16-18. I received (3). These are the Maroon Colored SAE Fittings. They are all marked with the sizes on them. The other problem I am not happy about are the Blue Metric Colored Fittings. Not one of them has the size marked on them. I guess you are suppose to guess at what you are using. To separate them I had to match them up and put them in the plastic assortment box I had to purchase on my own since Dorman did not supply one. So in the mean time I had to order another kit and this one is going to go back the way it came short one size and over one other size fitting. Waiting for the replacement one to come first so I can check to see if that one is right before I do anything else. I don't know if they are hand counted out by people or a machine picks them and throws them in the pack.

Got me out of a pinch. Now has a dedicated spot in my toolbox at work.

I have used this kit on several master cylinders now, works great and make the job so easy.

Way too much money for this kit, but it did what I needed it to do.

not recommended for some mastercylinder for those which it has 4 outlets for the brake fluid. otherwise you need to buy twice. for good fittings

did its job