Smith's 2-Step Knife Sharpener

This 2-step knife sharpener is easy to use and delivers excellent results. The preset angle guides make it simple to get a consistent edge every time, even if you’re not experienced with sharpening. The coarse stage quickly restores dull blades, and the fine stage polishes them to a smooth, sharp finish. The yellow design is bright and easy to spot in the kitchen. It’s compact, sturdy, and works well for most standard knives. A reliable tool for keeping your knives razor-sharp with minimal effort.

Works as should,,nice little sharpener great quality, price, fast shipping, the no -slip pads are nice makes a sharp knife sharper! ,just post office screwed up by 3 days again,, after useing it I can cut paper for sharpness test . awesome.

The product looks like it was used a few times and then returned. The sharpening area was scored several times. Also another indicator was that packaging was taped shut. But it seems to work as advertised. As a light portable field sharpener it does the job quite well. I will be keeping it

> The most convenient, compact, knife sharpener that I've found. > I use the ceramic side (with the little white cylinders) for sharpening kitchen knives (and my pocket knives). I hold the knives edge-up under running water in my sink with my left hand, and lightly move the sharpener with my right hand along the blade. About 10 very light strokes is usually enough to touch up an already fairly sharp knife. > I've nicked and scratched my kitchen countertop trying to sharpen long chef's knives using sharpeners that I have to place on a countertop and drag knives through. I appreciate that I don't have to set the Smith's sharpener on a countertop. > A few other reviewers claim that the ceramic rods broke when they were trying to sharpen knives --- if so, they were using WAY too much pressure. Use only a very light touch. > Generally speaking the carbide (metal) side should NEVER be used on chef's knives or other fine blades. The carbide takes off too much metal. In quality knives, only the very edge is treated to be hard enough to hold a very sharp edge --- grind that off (or scrape it off with a carbide sharpener), and all the sharpening in the world is a waste of time. Don't misunderstand, you can sharpen such a blade to razor sharpness --- but the blade will not hold the edge, it will quickly dull. A couple of other reviewers claim that the carbide chips fine blades -- in which case the blades are permanently ruined. > Use the carbide side for axes, machetes, and other utility blades made of comparatively softer steel. But even a utility blade can be damaged by using too much pressure with a carbide sharpener --- the edge of the blade becomes wavy and irregular. > You can touch up a utility blade, (that is, make it a little sharper) using the ceramic edge afterward --- but that extra step is usually a waste of time for utility blades, which will dull quickly in use anyway. > Maybe "medium quality" blades (such as an average quality hunting knife) might benefit from carbide followed by ceramic, but try the ceramic only, first. If, say 30, swipes with the ceramic side does not adequately sharpen the knife, then try 5 light swipes with the carbide sharpener, followed by 20 light swipes with the ceramic, and so on. > There is another option for truly fine blades -- a honer. If you see a chef "wiping" two chef's knives against each other, that's what he/she is doing -- honing. But it is better to use a honing rod (and follow the instructions which come with it, or watch a U-tube video). Honing straightens up microscopically bent or folded portions of the edge, and can dramatically "sharpen" a knife without removing any metal. If you use a honer, maybe once in 5 or 10 times that you hone the knife, you'll probably need to sharpen it with a ceramic sharpener -- albeit only a few strokes, 10 at most. > Caution, large rod-like ceramic sharpeners are sometimes described as (or sold as) "honers" -- maybe they hone and sharpen at the same time, but, if so, they are removing metal from your blade. The purpose of a honer (or a leather barber's strop) is to sharpen without removing metal. I recommend using a metal honer, followed (if necessary) by minimal sharpening with a ceramic sharpener. > How can you tell when a chef's knife is sharp? If (with a light sawing motion) the blade can cut a ripe tomato without depressing the skin, then it is sharp. I recommend that you forget about trying to sharpen blades sharp enough to shave the hair off your arms -- in the real world, there is no use for chef's knives, table knives, hunting knives, or pocket knives that sharp, and the weakened blade edges are more likely to chip, and will lose the 'edge' (become dull) much faster. I doubt that you could get a knife that sharp with a Smith CKK sharpener, anyway. That's not criticizing the Smith CKK sharpener -- it does what it needs to do quickly and easily. > Do NOT use on scissors, bypass garden shears, or grafting blades, or any other blades that are sharpened on only one side. Doing so will permanently ruin the blades.

Every man in my family I ha e gotten this for. Works great my son carries his to work everyday in case he needs it

Works ok, but does not make the knife very sharp. But it is a good cheap alternative if you do not have anything else.

Love these, keeps my pocket knife very sharp. Also use it for my kitchen knives. Occasionally clean with detergent and a toothbrush.

This thing works wonders for such a great price. It really does make you baldes sharpe. I'll be getting a extra one!

It’s a great design, brilliantly product. Transformed my knives, I have used alternatives before but this is the best of the bunch and worth the money. Top marks 👍

Sharp bit of kit and great for touching up a dull blade.

Funktioniert perfekt.

Es un producto pequeño, y los cuchillos los afila muy bien

I like the fact that it is lightweight and it floats. A simple design makes knife sharpening easy with 2 hoaning tools and it is small enough to throw in a camping kit.