8629 Wheel Bearing Hub Removal Tool Kit Universal Replace for ATD Tools, Remove All Axle Bolt Hubs - 5, 6 & 8 Lug Hubs Buster Puller

Works great, built very heavy and capable of the impact it takes. Prevents damage to steering knuckle from using a chisel or air hammer. Tool mine off of a 2004 Silverado in just 4 hits. The added fasteners supplied also prevents damaging your lug nuts to hold it in place. I'm very happy with it.

Worked for a day and a half trying to remove driver side hub. Heating and beating with a hammer. Bought this and 2-3 smacks and it came right off. Passengers side took about 1/2 hour total to do. Probably could make one but works well and definitely worth the price to me.

I bought this a few months ago and just used it yesterday. It worked really really well. Very well made, heavy duty steel, I used it on my 2002 Chevy Avalanche for the front wheel bearing/hub assembly. Three strikes with a 5 lb hammer and the hub fell out! Switched to the other side and had the exact same result! I would definitely recommend.

But when you need a hub replaced and don't want to get raped at the stealership, this is the way to go.

I was able to remove my 2012 F350 front hubs with this!! Total game changer. If you’ve ever tried to remove hubs you know what I’m talking about. I just bolted this to the hub, placed it at about 12:00 position and hit it hard with a 3lb drilling hammer a few times and my hubs came loose right away! I also sprayed my hubs with penetrating oil as well. If your going to tackle your hubs…get this tool!!! It’s very heavy and it comes with lots of different nuts and washers. Just find the ones you need.

This product is amazing! Build quality is awesome, easy to remove and install on the vehicle you are working on and I had the wheel bearing out in three minutes! It fits GM vehicles easily, my next task is my ram. AMAZING ADDITION TO THE TOOLBOX!

I decided to tackle the wheel bearing/hub assembly replacement on my 2010 Subaru Legacy. In these vehicles, the bearing installs into the opening of the steering knuckle so that the bearing OD is in contact with the ID of the steering knuckle for about 3/8" width. After removing the 4 bolts attaching the assembly to the steering knuckle (this was a chore itself), I couldn't for the life of me get the hub assembly out of the steering knuckle. I tried every rust penetrant and tool combination (mini sledge pounding any way that made sense, air hammer, etc.) to absolutely no avail. The thing wouldn't budge. The standard way to remove these is with a hub puller and slide hammer. I had those available, but didn't even attempt because there was no way that was going to work. Note that I am in the rustbelt, land of rusted out vehicles. This thing was seized worse than anything I'd tackled so far. After several days of traditional attempts, I was about to throw in the towel and purchase a new (used) steering knuckle and hub assembly and just take the tie rod and ball joints off to replace the whole thing. Little did I know this tool existed. I'd seen someone use one on a rear hub assembly in one video I'd watched, but I didn't realize it was an actual tool I could purchase and not something they fabricated for personal use. Before completely throwing in the towel, I saw more people referencing the tool online so decided to purchase it. Within minutes of receiving it in the mail I attached it and gave it a few whacks and the hub came out of the knuckle. I gave it three whacks, expecting to need more, but I'm pretty sure it had released after the second whack. If you live in the rustbelt and plan to do your own wheel bearing/hub assemblies, do yourself a favor and purchase this tool. I can't imagine what my mechanic would have charged for this hub replacement job. My only regret is not finding and purchasing it sooner. This thing may not be worth it's weight in gold (it's heavy, that would be a lot of gold), but it's worth every penny. I'm looking forward to using it on the other 3 hub assemblies when I'm ready to replace those. It will turn a several day DIY mechanic job back into the few hours it should have been.

Saw similar product advertised for easy extraction of bearing hubs. Just bolt on to lug studs, whack it a few times, and bearing hub should pop out. So, after doing all the prep work, including removal of caliper and bracket, brake rotor, parking brake assembly, all hub bolts, and liberally spraying on PB Blaster, I bolted this bad boy on and began to pound away with a sledge hammer. No luck! Gave it rest and applied more PB and let it soak for another day. Came back and pounded some (a lot!) more the next day. Still didn't work. After all the hammering, the included washers and nuts got distorted and stripped, so I bought some harder ones. Still didn't budge! Figuring the only thing I was accomplishing was adding thousands of miles of wear and tear on the suspension bushings, I threw in the towel! Found another way to remove the hub, and using an air hammer and chisel was able to pry the hub loose. It appeared to have welded itself in by electrolysis between the aluminum knuckle and the steel hub. Further research revealed that this is a common dreaded problem with certain Subaru hubs, including my '13 Outback. In my case, no amount of smashing away with a sledge hammer was going to work. The only way was to pry the hub out, either by chisel, special puller tool, or other method to apply wedge force between the hub, backing plate, and knucke. By the way, it took a lot of work just to get the hub out of the backing plate as well. Had to sand down the outer diameter of the hub, then pound it out. Long story short, Subaru could have prevented this situation by simply adding a little anti-seize on the hub during assembly!Bottom Line: While it may work for removal of many hubs, it was unable to do the job for me.