36 inch x 150 feet Paperless Wall Reinforcement

This stuff in incredible. It saved us so much work and had held so well.10/10 will always go back to this if there is a chance of saving the plaster. Our walls look brand new, we were able to use it around bay window angles and it’s seamless and EASY to use. Definitely a 2+ person job for the first time though.

I've been repairing the plaster walls in my 140 year-old house for a long time. I started using Glidwall , by Glidden, which they sold with a companion paint. They recommended using the paint to bond the fiberglass to the walls, and together claimed that the fiberglass and paint increased the R-value by a small amount. The latex paint dried too quickly (or I'm too slow), so I started using wallpaper paste to attach the fiberglass to the walls.When Glidwall was no longer available, I found Nu-Wal, which was essentially the same product, but without the Glidden paint. Now I can't find Nu-Wal, but fortunately Fiba-Fuse is now available. It is the same fiberglass mat as its predecessors, with one difference: Fiba-Fuse is 36" wide. The other products were both 48" wide. For me, the 36-inch width easier to handle.The fiberglass mats are VERY effective. They have stopped the cracks in our ancient walls.

When we took the 70s wood panelling off the walls, we were... worried. We did NOT want to scrape off the plaster and put up drywall.Enter Fibafuse. After patching with hot mud, we used a paint roller to coat the walls in watered down pre-mixed drywall compound. We hung the fibafuse in sheets like wallpaper on the walls on top of the wet compound Then we followed with several additional coats of the rolle-on watered-down compound. Finally, we added a thick coat of compound with trowels, and smoothed it out with a wide skimming blade.The photos show before and after. We are strictly DIYers, but a heavy helping of "gay audacity" and some good tools, and we are tickled pink with the results!One thing to keep in mind: this is actually fiberglass. When you sand it, even if you think it isn't exposed, the dust will leave particles in your clothes. Wear protective gear and masks, and/or prepare to throw those clothes away after.

Most painters will say you need to remove deteriorated and cracked old plaster walls and ceilings and just put up drywall. Them them No Way. fiberglass fibafuse works great for skimming lathe and plaster walls and ceilings. I needed for massive barrel ceiling and walls in a large living room with very high ceilings. Extensive cracks and deteriorated wood lathe. i patched and secured plaster to lathe first using plaster washers and where needed metal lathe. I caulked all the hairline cracks. did a light skimming with all purpose premixed joint compound. I cut the fibafuse into 16 foot sections and pressed it hard into the joint compound. I try to squeeze out as much joint compound as I could with my taping knives. so it would sit flat to the wall them skim over it. Let it dry and then do a another skin coat with topping. This stuff is an extremely lightweight but strong and doesn't tear easily. The material is easy to work with and it cuts easily with a trowel. Honestly this is a game changer when it comes to badly deteriorated real plaster walls. Only thing is the fiberglass can get all over the place. you arms hands mouth etc. Wear protective mask long sleeve shirt etc when using this material.

Great product, can cut to fit any size repair or for skim coat on entire damaged walls

I have restored plaster walls in NYC as a general contractor. Typically fiberglass mesh was used, but for some reason the fiberglass mesh wont stick to durabond.... so now you have to wait for the durabond to dry then use welbond or a similar bonding agent....but with Fibafuse you can bond this product over any of the durabond or premixed compounds. Its stiff enough to hold its shape. This stuff works great. For skim coating I use a notched trowel ( think tile) to make a nice even coating of compound then laminate this Fibafuse. I don't overlap the joints, just space them a 1/4 inch or so to keep everything flat. old plaster walls look great fast!

I read the other two reviewers and they seem to have their own methods and they seem convinced they're OK. This product will not rejuvenate a deteriorated plaster wall. If the plaster is shot, it needs to be chopped out and repaired properly. Caulk for cracks? Maybe when I was 15, but not now as an adult.This is a great product for going over walls with both plaster and paint cracks (old oil-based enamels that have dried out and crazed). I use it with hot mud. I also use this for small repairs, cut out a 12" square....make a wider joint tape when needed.You have to be careful on inside corners as your knife my rip the corner. With the hot mud, I cut it thin and it works great. I use this more to cover old crazed oil paints than anything. Would this be considered encapsulation of old lead-based paint? Another possible bonus.

I apply this product with joint compound. I do restoration in old houses where the walls are significantly cracked. You can't repair every crack, so I use this fabric on the entire wall, never will a crack show back. I use a thin coat of joint compound on the wall, apply the fabric, and use two or three finish coats of joint compound. It is very easy to do, and the finished walls look spectacular.