EastwoodPaintless Dent Repair Kit - PDR | Removes Dents Out of Metal Auto Body Panels | Auto Body Tool Set Dent Puller Kit with Slide Hammer Puller Set, Scarper Tool and Glue Gun for Car Hail Damage

Easy to use and worked perfectly without damage to my paint or panels.I've had my 04 since new. Over the last 18 years, despite my constant attempts to park as far away from other cars as possible, I've always managed to have some inconsiderate jerk park next to me. Dinging my door and side panels. I had several very small 1"L x1/16"D oblong dings/damage so dense, that I thought would never come out without removing the door panel and tapping them out from the backside.This 'Eastwood Auto Body Paintless Dent Removal Tool', worked beyond my wildest expectations!Since not having a 110v power outlet close by (300+ away), I was able to improvise power to the hot glue gun by plugging it into my (cigarette lighter) _12v - 110v Power Inverter_. Surprisingly it worked great!Upon my initial attempt to pull the first ding with the tool, The hot glue popped off the plastic pulling tab too easily. Leaving the glue stuck to the panel without pulling the ding.This was solved by lightly brushing the tip of the plastic tab over the surface of a concrete sidewalk (dulling the slick surface a bit). Each attempt thereafter worked flawlessly without the glue detaching from the pull tab so easily - Thus completely removing the ding/damage!It may require a few *gentle* pulls/tries and reapplying until the ding is finally fixed or significantly diminished. Just be gentle, patient and persistent and let the glue cool down COMPLETELY. This device really works well!BTW: in absence of denatured alcohol to remove any hot glue residue from the worked surface, ISOPROPYL alcohol and a soft rag, will also work to aid cleaning up any tenacious residue. You can also use a small amount of WD40 if you prefer.

OK, not the first time. but after a few tries, It pulled the dent out. maybe a bit too much, so I pushed it back a few times with my thumb and full body weight. I could not get to the back side to tap it out, because it was 2 layer thick in that area. So I gave this a try. There was no paint damage, though the glue was a bit hard to remove after the fact.My car is a 2008, so the metal is not that thick, It may not work on a 70's car and the paint may pull off. That said, I think its worth the try. Then share it with friends.

Works OK. Basically good, but you'll probably need a wider assortment of pull tabs, especially of the smaller sizes. The kit is a bit overpriced, I think. However, the carrying case is nice. You can get a kit on Amazon for much less money which contains more tools, but without the case.

Easy to use and effective. Follow the instructions and it works as it should. The glue gun is a little cheap feeling, but it gets the job done. Would highly recommend!!

I just got mine today. Terrible glue gun and glue sticks. I am pulling hail damage on a 2005 GMC. I called Eastwood Tech Advisor. I told them the glue would not hold, glue gun would not feed etc. I was told it was not made to pull anything but flat surfaces. I guess the hood and the top. The fenders have a slight curve. This is made in China. Spray bottle and scraper work okay. I watched their videos and others before my order. Nothing from Eastwood about only flat surfaces. There final word was "It is what it is". Lots of money for total junk and no support. I did try a new glue gun and body shop glue. It will be shipped back as soon as possible. Don't overlook the restocking fee and the customers pays for the return of this bad product. Thanks Eastwood for all the help.

The bottom line is that it worked to remove a dent from the gas tank on my motorcycle. I’ll keep it around and use it for similar minor issues as it certainly fills a need.There are two big problems here. The first is that hot glue gun as effectively worthless. It takes at least 15 minutes to heat up enough to melt the glue, but it doesn’t get hot enough for the trigger to actually pull the glue through the nozzle. I had to use two hands to pull the trigger while pushing the glue stick from the rear to get any flow. And then the glue cools too quickly to get it to the dent, so this all has to be done very close to the work surface.I ended up using a very old automotive glue gun (no clue what it is or where I got it) that heats up in 2 minutes and liquifies the glue with ease. Once I started working with that the rest of the kit worked pretty well.The other big issue is the slide hammer. It’s all screwed together, and as a result it unscrews itself as you’re using it. I had to stop every 5-6 slides to tighten it back up. I applied some thread locker and tried a couple hours later, but it didn’t improve much. After a few strikes the thread locker gave up and the problem returned. This isn’t a critical failure but it’s definitely a pain.The pulling pins and clamp-style puller worked well. It takes quite a bit of practice to get a rythym going, but once you figure out the right pressure and alignment it actually worked better than I expected. The slide hammer also worked well for getting a larger dent worked out to the point the clamp puller could finish it off.Bottom line then is that while it worked I don’t think it’s worth the premium price. It would be better to get a basic kit with the clamp puller and slide hammer, and then find a good glue gun separately. I imagine I could have done a better job spending $50-55 total and come out with similar results.The included photos show the starting dent, my progress after a couple hours, and finally another attempt the next morning. It’s working very slowly so I’m still going at it but I think with enough time and repetition it’ll get there.