US Merchant - Direct Replacement W10503278 WPW10503278 Jazz Control Board OEM Factory Certified for Refrigerators - W10165748 12784415 67006740 8208187

Installed the board two weeks ago on a Maytag Refrigerator PBF2255HEW program code 01. Fixed the problem with the top refrigerator compartment not keeping temperature and causing food to spoil. This was my last resort after checking the fans, seals and defrost (forced defrosted worked) prior to having to spend $$ on an unknow new refrigerator.

Funciona como el original, mi Nevera amana Funciona de nuevo

Product came sealed and new. Board and resistors different from original; but fit perfectly. Programming was simple enough with the "code" number on your refrigerator model sticker. Seems to be working great so far.

tl;dr: This fixed my fridge. It wasn't cooling, and the thermostat read "- , -".Details:I have a Whirlpool GB2FHDXWQ02 refrigerator (fridge on top, slide out drawer freezer on bottom)I came home one day and noticed the ice cream was soft.The thermostat read, "- , -". Dashes, minus signs.I tried to set the thermostat, but it did not respond to touch.The fridge was @50-60 degrees; the freezer @30. They should be 37/0.I watched a video on youtube, "Refrigerator Repair - Replacing the Electronic Control Board (Whirlpool Part # W10503278)" [you can search for "W10503278" and find a variety of videos]I disassembled my fridge. I did a wiggle test/pulled on the pcb board/wires while it was still clipped into the plastic housing. I could get the thermostat to display numbers if I held the buttons down fairly hard. I figured my jazz board was bad. (if you do this, do not touch the pcb with your fingers while the fridge is plugged in, or you will be shocked. You also risk shorting something out/damaging the fridge).I think it's a safe decision to order this board if your fridge displays dashes in the thermostat and doesn't respond to input.I ordered this part, W10503278 jazz board / control board.I broke it in half, installed it, and programmed the code.I initially thought it was broken, and not cooling.The reason I thought this, was because I set the thermostat to 7 / 7 (coldest), and the temps didn't immediately drop.I think it took 6-18 hours to really cool down. It has been @24 hours now, and my temps are 37/0, set to 5 / 5. (Which seems about right). My guess is that I'll wind up using 4 / 4.I used a Thermapen to measure liquid temperatures. I have a glass of water in the fridge. I had a glass of oil in the freezer, but it froze, and I wound up using ice cream. I also have a bluetooth sensorpush thermometer in the freezer.I think the compressor ran constantly for hours while the fridge was cooling down. I assume that's normal.I wiped up any water in the fridge/freezer, because I guess the humidity will freeze on the evaporator fins and cause problems.And I dusted out the condenser fins.I am satisfied with the repair. I hope the part will last another 10 years.In hindsight, my fridge displayed symptoms earlier. About a month ago, I think the thermostat set itself to 2 / 3 (or someone else did). And another time, I had noticed the thermostat displayed "- / -", but it responded to touch, and I adjusted it back to 4 / 4.

I had a long battle with our warranty company because they could not find the right parts for our refrigerator that would not defrost and kept replacing smaller, less expensive parts. I did my own research and found the way to test this part and turns out, it was the problem. Even though I could manually put the refrigerator into defrost, it was not transmitting the signal on it's own. I replaced this part while following along with a video on YouTube and was able to have it changed out in about 20 minutes. It has been a few weeks now and the refrigerator is still working great and doing the defrost on its own. This part has saved me lots of time and money. We actually have a new refrigerator ordered but the delivery keeps getting pushed back, by months, because of shipping issues due to the pandemic. I am so glad I ordered it here as it was much more expensive on appliance part websites (like 5X as much.)I highly suggest finding the replacement instructions on YouTube. The instructions that come with this board are not enough to do the repair. The instructions had 2 steps listed. 1. Remove old part, 2. Instal this part (I am not joking, those are the instructions that came with the board.) I honestly wouldn't even be able to find this piece if I hadn't already watched a video of the replacement. They don't make it intuitive, but it isn't difficult as long as you know where all the clips and buttons to press are located.The board also comes exactly as shown. It is one piece and part of doing the instal is snapping the board into 2 pieces. I think this is the only part that gave me trouble. It is scored and it snaps apart just like it is supposed to, but as someone who isn't well versed in this kind of work, it gave me quite a bit of anxiety, mostly because I just didn't know where to hold it when I did the snap. I was really worried I was going to break something off and it took a little more force to snap it than I expected, but the piece is sturdy and the snap went well. My best advice for that is to just find a clear place to hold and go for it.Last thing is to remember to program this part. It works for multiple models and brands, so you have to put in the correct programming code when you are finished putting it in. The code is in the refrigerator on the sticker with the model and serial numbers. It is a 2 digit code and is typically easy to find. The manual does explain how to put the code in, but if for some reason your doesn't, it is easy to find programming instructions along with installing instructions online.I definitely am happy with this part. I know nothing about appliance repair but was able to change this out fairly quickly by myself following online instruction and most importantly, it works.

The Circuit Board is delivered in one piece, but the Whirlpool Refrigerator has two separate Circuit Board pieces. There was a hairline scratch on the board, maybe made by a die cutter, which corresponded to the configuration between the two circuit boards. I cut the board into two pieces using a Carpet Knife to separate the boards more, and then snap them like a ceramic tile. Then put the boards in, and programmed it., They gave programming instructiions, but no Installation instructions. I built various Heathkit Amateur Radio and Stereo kits as a kid, so know my way around Circuit Boards. Never seen anything like this, without instructions would be pretty intimidating for most people.

Worked great, easy to install.